Even with the plethora of medium and long-haul locations obtainable to immediately’s discerning travellers, there’s nonetheless one thing particular in regards to the Caribbean – that assortment of islands solid like a string of pearls into the ocean between the Americas.
The islands provide many contrasts: from the unique, super-rich haunts of St Barth’s and Mustique to these playboy tax-havens and cruise-ship magnets St Thomas and St Maarten; from the smoky, sultry, Latin American ardour of Cuba and Puerto Rico to the yacht-friendly breezes of the Grenadines or the steel-drum, calypso exuberance of the cricketing West Indies.
Palm-fringed seashores? Ocean sunsets? Rum punch and Pina Coladas? Get in.
Jewel within the Caribbean’s crown: Rory Bremner takes within the view of the seaside at Peter Island
Our mission: to match and distinction two vacation experiences, Antigua and Peter Island. One, a preferred and much-loved vacation spot with cricket-lovers and yachtsmen alike; the opposite, an unique personal island mendacity between the British Virgin Islands of Tortola and Virgin Gorda. Effectively, any individual needed to do it.
Our solely restriction was time: we had simply seven nights during which to finish our enviable activity. Therefore my first piece of recommendation: take longer.
For those who consider that getting there’s half the enjoyable, you’ll benefit from the journey to Peter Island, as a result of it could seem to be it has taken half your vacation to get there. Loosen up. It’s value it. However you’ll have to fly through Antigua and St Maarten – and possibly drop off passengers at a 3rd island en route. Welcome to the mad, dysfunctional world of native island-hopping airline LIAT (locals like to let you know that’s an acronym for Go away Island Any Time. You higher consider it). Tip quantity two: plan your flights fastidiously.
Top of luxurious: Curtain Bluff is perched on a promontory stretching into the ocean with the Atlantic Ocean on one aspect and the Caribbean on the opposite
Soak within the view: The friends Rory met at Curtain Bluff stated they got here again repeatedly
So, Antigua first. I really like Antigua. It’s wilder, extra laid-back and rougher spherical the sides than its larger, brasher neighbours. In a phrase, it’s actual. The persons are fiercely pleased with their island however they’re relaxed, pleasant and good-humoured too – consider the swagger and smile of cricketer Viv Richards in his pomp.
The island lacks the crime of Jamaica or St Kitts, the super-rich clientele of St Barth’s, or the commercialism, high-end vacationer developments and sheer extra of Barbados. You’re much less more likely to run into Simon Cowell or Jodie Marsh right here. (Though Eric Clapton has a spot on the island together with – commendably – a rehab clinic.)
As you drive throughout Antigua, both alongside the coast or by way of the rainforest inside, you move tough bungalows, shacks, graveyards (for people and vehicles), faculties and Baptist church buildings. Whereas there are some resorts to the north and west, the extra luxurious lodges are dotted alongside the south coast, together with Curtain Bluff, perched on a promontory stretching into the ocean with the Atlantic Ocean on one aspect and the Caribbean on the opposite.
Our schedule meant we merely overnighted there, and had time solely to benefit from the good meals and fast service at dinner, hearken to the Atlantic breakers crashing onto the seaside simply yards from our balcony, and meet the proprietor Chelle Hulford. Everybody meets Chelle. She’s an establishment, mingling with friends, internet hosting drinks and chatting with the clientele who love Curtain Bluff, charge it extremely and are available again repeatedly. That’s advice sufficient.
Pure haven: The Inn at English Harbour has a genuinely timeless, colonial appeal
Lounging within the lap of luxurious: The Inn’s rooms have lately been refurbished
On our return from Peter Island, we spent two very nice nights on the Inn at English Harbour. The harbour is a pure haven for weary craft which are grateful to search out peaceable shelter on the finish of their travels. The identical may very well be stated of the resort. However don’t be delay: like Curtain Bluff, The Inn has a faithful and common clientele – although no kids underneath ten (or, it appeared, underneath 60) – and it has a genuinely timeless, colonial appeal.
The three distinctive white-washed, verandahed pavilions that home the resort’s 24 rooms have lately been refurbished. Though none have baths, they’re spectacular, with polished picket flooring, interval furnishings and grand beds, some four-postered. (Ebook an upstairs room to keep away from being disturbed by footsteps above. Nothing to do with a ghost: extra the American couple who began pacing the room above ours at 6.30am and have been nonetheless at it three hours later).
Meals needs to be the resort’s subsequent precedence – it may very well be improved – however the poolside lunches and Thursday night time’s beach-side barbecue, accompanied by a metal band, have been scrumptious, and the resort’s extra elegant restaurant, increased up the hill, regarded like a phenomenal spot to dine. Alas, our flight was too late to allow us to pattern that delight.
Merely fabulous: Rory explores the grounds of his luxurious resort on Peter Island
Historic: Nelson’s Dockyard is the British Naval Base established in English Harbour within the 1770s
The presence of a dozen or extra yachts peacefully at anchor within the harbour is one purpose why there aren’t any high-octane watersports, however we took a kayak, and later the resort’s water taxi, and visited Nelson’s Dockyard, the British Naval Base established in English Harbour within the 1770s. Its gray stone Georgian buildings have been restored and transformed for a wide range of trendy makes use of, together with a resort and an attention-grabbing museum.
There are two different must-do actions on the island. Firstly, hang around at Shirley Heights, excessive above English Harbour, on a Thursday or Sunday night time. Everybody goes to celebration to the metal bands and luxuriate in food and drinks from native stalls. Secondly (a brand new one, this), put in your bathers and go to Stingray Metropolis, a reef off the coast the place you may swim and kneel within the shallow water whereas feeding pleasant stingrays. Kids will find it irresistible. We did too.
Moist and wild: Stingray Metropolis presents swimmers the prospect to stand up near the native sea life
However now to the jewel in our Caribbean crown: Peter Island. A personal island, owned by the founding father of Amway, it’s dwelling to a resort of 52 rooms, the dearer of which overlook Lifeless Chest Island, the place Blackbeard’s notorious 15 males have been allegedly marooned. (‘Yo, ho, ho, and a bottle of rum….’)
Just one pirate supposedly made it over to Peter Island, however he died on the seaside. Maybe he noticed the resort’s costs.
Along with the rooms there are additionally three beautifully-appointed villas, the most important of which sleeps 12 and is stunningly-designed. Named Falcon’s Nest, it boasts an infinity pool, waterfall, visitor wings, eating room, double-height reception room – and a $12,000 (£7,300) an evening price ticket (plus 18 per cent service) to match.
The remainder of the resort isn’t low-cost both, however aside from the odd gripe on TripAdvisor (NO LOBSTER! shrieked one, with all of the indignation of Michael Winner failing to search out recent Parmesan on Barbados), it’s merely fabulous.
Of the 1800 lush acres of land, solely 300 are developed, that means it doesn’t really feel crowded, and must you want to stroll the two.5 miles as much as the highest of the property to observe the sundown over Norman Island (seemingly the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson’s Treasure Island), you’ll move only a handful of fellow-guests, on their technique to the tennis courtroom or the large spa for his or her Ayurvedic remedies.
Peaceable retreat: Of the 1800 lush acres of land on Peter Island, solely 300 are developed
Style for the nice life: A chef grills seafood throughout a seaside barbecue on Peter Island
It says one thing for this distinctive place that you just quickly overlook the hassle it took to get right here. The ultimate stretch of the journey is a 20-minute ferry journey from Tortola and on the boat you’ll meet among the 160-odd workers who work right here – they stay on Tortola and take the ferry every day.
Their friendliness and good humour pervade the resort, and a few – just like the exceptional Jean Kelly – have been right here for many years. In Jean’s case, almost three a long time. She’s the life and soul of Peter Island, in her 80s and nonetheless – full with spectacular hair-do (a few of it her personal) – ever-present at breakfast, the place the must-have coconut-crusted French toast is called after her.
All the things is catered to American requirements. And excessive requirements at that.
We have been on what’s known as the Full American Meals Plan, and if you happen to’ve ever seen a Full American, you’ll be capable of think about what was on provide. At breakfast we took our decide from pancakes, granola and maple syrup, omelettes, fruit salad and eggs Benedict, whereas dinner one night time concerned a wine tasting and connoisseur menu to accompany the wines (however nonetheless no lobster).
At night time, sitting within the Tradewinds Restaurant, you see the lights of Tortola twinkling like a starcloth throughout the shimmering sea.
Treasure island: The white sand of Deadman’s seaside is lapped by the crystal clear Caribbean sea
Stunningly-designed: Falcon’s Nest options an infinity pool, waterfall, visitor wings, eating room, double-height reception room – and a £7,300 an evening price ticket
Some nights and most days you may eat on the seaside bar, as can day guests from yachts moored offshore (all seashores within the Virgin Islands are public). Right here, and at Tradewinds, Captain will combine you the most effective Raspberry Mojito or BBC (Baileys, Banana, Coconut) you’ve ever tasted.
By day chances are you’ll need to lounge on the seaside or by the pool – we took a free kayak and Hobie Cat in the future – but when the wind is up (Tradewinds is appropriately named on lately, the breeze being fairly robust), you need to e-book your self (early) into one of many six huts on White Bay seaside and spend the day on the sheltered aspect of the island, swimming and snorkelling.
Wherever you go – spa, seaside, restaurant – you’re assured a memorable expertise. On the ferry again, you’ll share the journey with the homeward shift of resort workers, lots of whom you’ll know by now. ‘You’ll be again’, they are saying, laughing. They usually’re proper. A minimum of I rattling properly hope they’re proper. I’ll begin saving now.
