Deep within the forest within the Charlevoix area of Quebec is a clearing, and in it a bear whisperer. His title is Monsieur Denis Laliberte and we’re watching his black bears consuming corn and apples underneath a buttery solar.
Laliberte tells me that, if I ever meet a bear shut up, I’m to ‘communicate softly, but straight, even perhaps recite a poem — however solely in French’. Crikey.
As we watch in silence, Laliberte factors out every black, shiny bear. He has given all of them names.
Name of the wild: Within the jap components of Quebec, bear, moose and whale watching are all doable simply a few hours’ drive from Montreal and Quebec Metropolis
Then he wanders amongst them, and a few even take bananas from his hand. No one strikes. We’re in awe.
On this jap a part of Quebec, bear, moose and whale watching are all doable simply a few hours’ drive from Montreal and Quebec Metropolis. So you possibly can mix pure wonders with metropolis thrills in a brief journey.
The Foret Montmorency, close to Quebec Metropolis, is moose nation and we spot the big beasts nearly instantly.
Out on the huge St Lawrence River, a zodiac boat takes us whale watching. We surprise at superior humpbacks and beluga as they swim solemnly by.
In fact, it’s all a far cry from Montreal, the place our journey begins. That is the second-largest French-speaking metropolis on this planet, after Paris, and is the place native lady Celine Dion was married within the grand Notre-Dame Basilica and maple syrup is served with all the pieces.
Sure, there are designer outlets and boutique accommodations, however there are additionally old school cabaret supper golf equipment, the place reside bands and dancing accompany dinner. Bistro Cabaret Le Fripon jogs my memory of Paris within the Seventies.
And right here on the Place Jacques-Cartier, it’s each French — massive out of doors cafe terraces — and North American, within the type of the standard Courthouse. In Quebec, public transport is straightforward and comfy. From Montreal, the area’s capital, Quebec Metropolis, is just a three-hour prepare experience via fabulous autumn foliage. You alight on the Gare du Palais, a 100-year-old listed constructing.
Fairly persuasion: In Quebec, public transport is straightforward and comfy. From Montreal, the area’s capital, Quebec Metropolis, is just a three-hour prepare experience via fabulous autumn foliage
I stroll via the Previous Port district, admire the Citadelle partitions and do a spot of Christmas procuring on Rue Saint-Jean, the place outlets promote handmade bijoux bangles and silk clothes.
From Quebec Metropolis, the Practice de Charlevoix takes me to the quaint city of Baie-Saint-Paul, the place mountains roll down via farmland to the river’s seashores and salt estuaries. This is named the Charlevoix area, and it’s well-known for meals and the Cirque du Soleil.
The extraordinary circus present was based right here by the proprietor of the Lodge Le Germain, who purchased an outdated prepare observe and rundown farm, reinstated the prepare service to Quebec Metropolis on the previous and turned the latter into a cool lodge. Within the Charlevoix area, you possibly can observe the Flavour Path — the place round 60 eating places and producers show an emblem which signifies that they use native produce.
We go to an emu farm and a cheesemaker and take a horse-drawn carriage experience round Baie-Saint-Paul.
You’re spoilt for alternative with regards to eating, however I particularly just like the Maison du Bootlegger, close to La Malbaie. Right here, an outdated picket home conceals creaky doorways and secret passages. It opened in 1940 in the course of the temperance motion. Alcohol arrived within the night time and locals would occasion within the attic.
Right this moment, there’s a rocking restaurant with a reside band. Apparently, in 1970, Elvis dropped by.
Quebec is filled with surprises — not least French-speaking bear whisperers.
