Leeuwarden, the primary metropolis of northern Holland’s Friesland area, has taken over as European Capital of Tradition (collectively with Valletta, Malta).
First impressions are of a mini Amsterdam: cafe -lined canals, stone bridges, tall, gabled homes and households on bikes. It is as Dutch as a wedge of Edam.
However Leeuwarden has a panache of its personal and town is within the throes of an thrilling renewal. It will likely be a taking place place all yr, with Frisians displaying the world how they’re a individuals aside.
A small-scale appeal: Leeuwarden is likely one of the Netherlands’ less-known cities
AREN’T FRISIANS COWS?
Not fairly — the spelling is one letter completely different. However Frisian individuals are all too conscious that black-and-white Friesian cattle are much better identified world wide than themselves. But you’ll discover they’re happy with their distinctive historical past and tradition, and converse a language nearer to English than Dutch.
Tsiis (pronounced ‘cheese’) for instance, is Frisian for cheese.
WHERE TO START?
That is a bit of keek (Frisian for cake).
Compact and strollable, nowhere is various minutes’ stroll. Discover the previous city centre round Wilhelminaplein, the primary sq.. Landmarks embrace the Oldehove tower, seemingly frozen within the act of collapse. Something Pisa can do…
Cobbled lanes lead from canals up a trio of mild hills. On the tops you discover splendid previous retailers’ homes, such because the childhood residence of Rembrandt’s spouse Saskia.
WHAT’S ON?
Friesland will draw on the importance of water – previous, current and future – in a string of aquatically themed creative, musical and sporting occasions all year long.
It kicks off on the final weekend of January, with an extravaganza of road theatre, songs and dance alongside the canals. The finale is fireworks set to music within the wintry sky.
One other spotlight will probably be an open-air efficiency of Verdi’s Aida in July; and in September De Stormruiter, an exuberant theatrical present that includes 100 Friesian horses.
The brand new Fries Museum opened amid fanfare final yr, Mata Hari, The Fantasy And The Maiden is a particular exhibition celebrating a gilded life and tragic dying.
WHO’S MATA HARI?
She was the erotic dancer who mesmerised Paris together with her mysterious oriental antics on and off stage. A courtesan to millionaires, politicians and generals, she was tried as a German spy by the French and executed by firing squad in 1917.
Maybe that’s what they imply by the ‘delusion’. The maiden was additionally native lass Margreet Zelle, daughter of a Leeuwarden hat store proprietor, born subsequent to one of many canals.
DISH OF THE DAY?
With their abundance of cattle, it’s unsurprising that Frisians devour cow’s milk cheeses like there isn’t any tomorrow: laborious; gentle; rinded with wax; or nagelkaas ‘nail cheese’, the nails being cloves. On the draw back (from a bovine viewpoint), the native urge for food for beef (steaks, meatballs and hotpots) might disgrace an Argentine gaucho.
For the most well liked desk on the town, go to jail. Lately opened Proefverlof restaurant (proefverlof.frl) is throughout the partitions of the previous Blokhuis jail. Early launch could be negotiated on settlement of £60-70 for 2.
A breezy enchantment: Town could have a yr in focus in 2018 as a European Capital of Tradition
BEST PLACE TO STAY?
Choose of the previous -style lodges within the metropolis centre is the four-star Put up Plaza (post-plaza.nl), in Leeuwarden’s quirkily transformed former Common Put up Workplace.
Doubles from £85, together with a lavish buffet breakfast.
ANYTHING ELSE?
Technically, Leeuwarden is sharing the Capital of Tradition honour with the remainder of Friesland.
A cultural ‘Route of all Routes’ connects 11 coastal and inland cities, every with a brand new fountain themed on a chapter of their cultural story. Biking is a straightforward technique to tour the flat, inexperienced expanses sprinkled with grazing herds of these well-known Friesians on their residence turf.
Do not miss the port of Harlingen, the place the legendary Dutch boy saved Holland by placing his thumb in a dyke. Over the primary week of August, scores of tall ships from world wide will arrive right here on the end of a North Sea race.
HOW DO I GET THERE?
KLM (klm.com) flies from 17 British regional airports to Amsterdam Schiphol airport from £99 return.
Direct trains run hourly between Schiphol and Leeuwarden, taking two hours 17 minutes and costing €26.60 (£23.50) every manner.
Extra info from Friesland Tourism’s web site friesland.nl/en.
